Pour une histoire de la masculinisation de la mode féminine

Journées d’étude TAILORING IDENTITIES

Sans inscription

Organisé par Marta Franceschini, Émilie Hammen et Marine Kisiel

DAY 1 – 30 June 2025

9:00 – 9:30 Registration

9:30 – 10:00 Opening Remarks

Panel 1: Material Histories – crafting gender through fabric and form

10.00 – 10.15 Valerio Zanetti –The evolution and significance of women’s equestrian habits in Louis XIV’s France.

10.15 – 10.30 Heather Belnap – “La Parisienne’s Armor: Women’s Appropriation of Military Dress in Late Napoleonic France”

10.30 – 10.45 Alison Matthews David – Women with a Point: Swordswomen, Seamstresses and Accessories to Crime.

10:45 – 11:15 Coffee Break

11.15 – 11.30 Marie McLoughlin – The Empress and the English Tailor: Empress Eugenie and Henry Creed.

11.30 – 11.45 Fiona Anderson – Fashionable Tailoring, Gender and British Wool Textile Design

11:45 – 12:30 Round-table discussion

12:30 – 14:00 Lunch break

Panel 2: Movement and the Body – tailoring mobility and authority

14.15 – 14.30 Cally Blackman – Changing Habits

14.30 – 14.45 Hannah Rumball-Croft – The Ladies Ulster in the 1870s and 1880s: From “Eccentric-looking” to “beau ideal”

14.45 – 15.00 Bruna Holderbaum – Réformer c’est masculiniser ?

15:00 – 15:30 Coffee Break

15.30 – 15.45 Raissa Bretaña – Pantalette Suffragette: Dress, Gender Politics, and the American Women’s Suffrage Movement

15.45 – 16.00 Marie Bouchard – La voyageuse aux colonies (1920-1940) : une New Woman qui se professionnalise dans le secteur de l’aventure en empruntant le vestiaire masculin

16:00 – 16:45 Round-table discussion

16.45 – 18:00 Drinks

DAY 2 – 1 July 2025

Panel 3: Subversion and Cross-dressing – constructing alternative femininities

09.30 – 09.45 Natacha Aprile – « Pour ses habits, elle est tantôt homme tantôt femme »: le vêtement androgyne de Christine de Suède et son évolution

09.45 – 10.00 Pauline Deschamps-Kahn – Circulations et emprunts entre le vestiaire féminin et le vestiaire masculin en Italie au début du XVI e siècle: des sources textuelles aux représentations picturales

10.00 – 10.15 Olga Khoroshilova – “Amazons, tomboys and sailors. Russian female cross-dressers in 19th-early 20th century and their representation in photography of the period”

10:15 – 10:45 Coffee Break

10.45 – 11.00 Amy De la Haye – Gluck: Dress & Identity

11.00 – 11.15 TBC

11:15 – 12:00 Round-table discussion

12:00 – 14:00 Lunch break

Panel 4: Cultural Echoes – gendered dress in print, media, and memory

14.00 – 14.15 Stephanie Lever – Tailoring the Teddy Girls: Subculture, Gender, and the Construction of Utopia in 1950s London

14.15 – 14.30 Lola Charnay – La lesbienne masculine : une image de la décadence fin-de-siècle dans la presse illustrée

14.30 – 14.45 Sarah Banon – La virilisation en revue(s)

14.45 – 15.00 Anna Hanchett – Sartorial Becomings: Women, Tailored Suits, and Feminine Difference

15.00 – 15.45 Round-table discussion

15.45 – 16:15 Coffee break

16:15 – 16.45 Concluding remarks

16:45 – 17:15 Towards Vestiaire Dissident