Journées d’étude: « (Un)dressing Rubens (Antwerp, 8-9 May 14) »

The theme of this two-day symposium is the depiction of dress and fashion in the work of Peter Paul Rubens and his Flemish contemporaries and successors, often active at foreign courts (1580-1700). In addition to paintings, extant garments, contemporary texts on dress, and fashion prints will be considered as subjects of study to generate a comprehensive view of historical dress, its representation, and its perception in the Southern Netherlands. The symposium aims to generate new discussions and insights into the Southern Netherlandish history of costume, as well as to explore and uncover the complex historical interactions between fashion, prints and paintings. An explicitly interdisciplinary approach brings
together leading figures and fresh voices from the fields of the history of dress and the history of art.

PROGRAM

Thursday, 8 May 2014

9.00: Registration and coffee
9.45: Welcome by Véronique van de Kerckhof (Rubenianum, Antwerp) and
Katlijne Van der Stighelen (KU Leuven)

I. Mirroring Materiality: Painting and the Reality of Dress
chair: Koenraad Brosens (KU Leuven)
10.00: Aileen Ribeiro (The Courtauld Institute of Art), The Fashion for
Rubens
10.30: Frieda Sorber (MoMu Fashion Museum, Antwerp), Dark and Silent
Witnesses: 17th-Century Archaeological Costume Finds from Antwerp
11.00: coffee
11.30: Johannes Pietsch (Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich), The
Materiality of Contemporary Dress Depicted by Rubens and other
Flemish Painters
12.00: Birgitt Borkopp-Restle (Universität Bern), Silk Velvet, Perfumed
Leather and Ostrich Feathers – Clothes and their Materiality in
Rubens’s Antwerp
12.30: discussion
13.00: lunch

II. Patterns Emerge: Visual and Written Sources
chair: Anna Reynolds (Royal Collection Trust)
14.30: Karen Hearn (University College London), “Wrought with Flowers
and Leaves …”: Representing Embroidery in English Portraits from
the Age of Rubens
15.00: Marcia Pointon (University of Manchester), Accessorizing Susanna
15.30: Elizabeth McFadden (University of California, Berkeley), Rubens
and the Materiality of Fur
16.00: coffee
16.30: Isis Sturtewagen (University of Antwerp), Clothing Rubens’s
Antwerp – Everyday Urban Dress in the Early 17th Century
17.00: Hannelore Magnus (KU Leuven), Veiled by Rubens’s Fame. The
Representation of Fashion in the Oeuvre of the Antwerp Genre Painter
Hiëronymus Janssens (1624-1693)
17.30: discussion

Friday, 9 May 2014

III. Made to Measure: the Rubensian Wardrobe
chair: Arnout Balis (Centrum Rubenianum, Antwerp)
9.00: Kristin Lohse Belkin (Historians of Netherlandish Art),
Fashioning the Past for the Present: Rubens and the Aesthetics of
Dress
9.45: Pilar Benito García (Patrimonio Nacional, Madrid), Fabrics and
Embroidery in ‘The Adoration of the Magi’ by Rubens
10.15: coffee
10.45: Susan Miller (Independent scholar), Kosode and Rubens: an
Unfamiliar Luxury
11.15: Sara van Dijk (Leiden University), Rubens and “the source and
origin of all the pretty fashions in Italy”
11.45: Cordula van Wyhe (University of York), Identity and Attire of
the Aristocratic Patriciate in Rubens’s Self-Portraits and Portraits
of his Wives
12.15: discussion
12.45: lunch

IV. Framing Faces: Hair, Ruffs, Hats, and Hoykes
chair: Katlijne Van der Stighelen (KU Leuven)
14.30: Susan Vincent (University of York) The King’s Beard and the
Queen’s Curls: Hair at the Court of Charles I
15.00: Philipp Zitzlsperger (Fresenius University of Advanced Sciences,
School of Design/ Humboldt-Universität, Berlin) Rubens’s Collars,
Indications of Confessionalism and Nationalism
15.30: coffee
16.00: Bianca du Mortier (Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam), From Spanish Mantò
to the Huyck – in search of the origin
16.30: Bert Watteeuw (Rubenianum, Antwerp) The Painted Veil: Hélène
Fourment Wearing a Hoyke
17.00: discussion and closing remarks by Emilie Gordenker (Mauritshuis,
The Hague)
17.30: Isabelle de Borchgrave (artist, Brussels), Paper Dresses. An
Artist’s Perspective on Painting and Fashion
18.15: reception Rubens House

For more information please visit: http://colloquium.rubenianum.be/

Registration before 1 May 2014 is mandatory.
Please register online at http://colloquium.rubenianum.be/
Regular registration fee: € 80 (one day: € 40)
Student registration fee: € 30 (one day: € 15)

For further information, please contact :
Bert.Watteeuw@stad.antwerpen.be or Hannelore.Magnus@arts.kuleuven.be

This symposium is organized by:
Drs. Bert Watteeuw
Véronique van de Kerckhof
Rubenianum
Kolveniersstraat 20
2000 Antwerpen
http://www.rubenianum.be
&
Dra. Hannelore Magnus
Prof. dr. Katlijne Van der Stighelen
Research Team of Early Modern Art
KU Leuven
Blijde-Inkomststraat 21 box 3313
B-3000 Leuven Belgium
http://www.arts.kuleuven.be/flemishbaroque
http://www.arts.kuleuven.be/art_history